After years of climbing in the New River Gorge, here are some of my favorite places to climb and sight see in the area. Welcome to your next vacation destination!
Climbing Favorites
The New is known for stout grading and heady climbs. During my first trip there, I remember being blown away by its beauty while simultaneously surprised at the difficulty of the climbs. The Gorge is undoubtedly a world class climbing destination with Nuttall sandstone walls that reach over 100 feet in some areas.
One such area is the Meadow River area which encompass crags such as Zero Buttress, 1st through 3rd Buttress, Area 51, and Cambodia. My husband, John, and I have enjoyed climbs at 1st Buttress and 3rd Buttress primarily because of their lighter traffic and longer pitches. A long walking trail by the river takes you to a cairn on the hillside and a short, steep climb to the rock face. We used a mix of the guide book and Mountain Project to find our way the first time.
For the crushers out there, Area 51 and Cotton Top offer some classic climbs in the 5.12 and 5.13 range. Cotton Top is definitely an aesthetically beautiful crag with vertical walls and tall trees. Area 51 offers a cave style feature with several perma-draw, overhung routes. The walk to Area 51 is long and good for chats with buddies, but if you want to save your sending, mutant human energy, consider driving in to get a bit closer.
Endless Wall offers the New River Gorge experience with classic, stout routes and beautiful views. Be prepared to humbled while climbing here as it does have the nickname, "Sendless Wall". Climbing in West Virginia has taught me to climb for beauty and inspiring movement rather than for grades. One of the best climbs for the adventure climbers out there would be Fool Effect. It is a 5.9 slab climb that reaches 120 feet and tops out at Diamond Point, a rocky peninsula that offers fabulous views. You can then rappel off of a nearby tree to return back to the crag.
Beautiful Hikes and Things to See
The photo above was taken during a fall hike of the Long Point trail. This is by far one of the most stunning views in the Gorge and it can be accessed by an easy 3.2 mile round trip hike. Some visitors choose to bike a portion of the trail and then walk to the rocky viewing point. The bridge in the photo is the highlight of the Gorge as it is the longest steel bridge in the western hemisphere.
Diamond Point and Endless Wall Trail are also classics in the park. Diamond Point is rock peninsula much like the Long Point which offers almost 360 views. This is also in a climbing area, so be sure to not kick or throw rocks over the sides of the cliffs.
If you are someone who loves water, don't worry, I haven't forgotten you! The New is very well known for its river rafting and kayaking. Some of the rapids are class 5 and there are guiding services that will take you down the river should you not have your own gear. The swimming at Summersville lake in the summer months is perfect if you love deep lakes and blue waters. A hike through what seems like a beautiful rainforest takes you to an area called Pirates Cove which is my favorite place to get in and cool off.